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Amorphophallus Titanum ***FREE SHIPPING*** |
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Quantity in Basket:
None
Code: amorphtitanum
Price: $45.00
Weight: 0.00 pounds
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3-5 cm Corm.
GROWING INSTRUCTIONS
Amorphophallus titanum (Sumatra)
This is the famed Titan Arum discovered by Eduardo Beccari in 1878 and flowered at Kew Gardens in June of 1889. This is truly one of the giant species in this genus of unusual plants. A native of Sumatra (Western Indonesia),
Amorphophallus titanium is found in semi-open spaces in young secondary forest or in relatively recently disturbed habitat ranging from sea level to about 4000 feet. The leaf petiole is typically an apple green color with small white dots and, in some clones, gray lichen-like markings. .
Once flowering size, the plants produce a stunning flower that can reach up to 10 feet tall. Several recent flowerings at Botanical Gardens here in the US as well as Europe have had flowers well over 6 feet tall. Mature plants in the wild have leaves up to 15 feet tall although potted specimens typically are much smaller, on the order of 7-10.
Mature corms can reach 65cm (2 feet) in diameter and weigh up to 75 kg (165 pounds) or more. It appears from recent flowerings that corms need to reach 30 pounds before they will flower and with good culture this is about 8 years from seed. Plants grow well in a very fertile but well drained potting mix such as Fafard 3B amended with about 25% perlite.
Very little is known regarding the cold hardiness of this species and it should be assumed that temperatures below 45F are to be avoided. The corm must be left in the soil during dormancy and care should be taken when handling the dormant corm to avoid bruising or breaking the surface skin of the corm. This species CANNOT be stored dry.
Plant Morphology
Structurally, Amorphophallus consist of a single leaf (in some species such as this one, the leaf may be as large as a small tree but it’s still a single leaf) and a subterranean corm.
The leaf is divided into a petiole (leaf stem) and the lamina (what looks like the actual canopy of leaflets). These plants grow through a definite cycle of growth
followed by a dormant period in which the leaf falls and the corm will rest.
After the rest period, the next leaf will develop and the corm will enlarge. Once the plant reaches flowering size, the flower will follow the end of the dormant phase,
followed by another rest period of a few weeks and then followed by leaf development. The length of the rest period between flowering and leaf development varies by species.
In Am. bulbifer and others with a strong dormant period, the rest can be as long as a year or more.
In tropical species such as this one, the rest period between flowering and leaf development is rather short, usually a few weeks.
Watering
Plants in active growth should be watered when the surface of the potting medium just begins to dry out. Evidence of fungus gnats indicates the potting medium is being kept too damp.
Amorphophallus are susceptible to rotting if kept too damp. It is much easier to recover plants kept a little too dry than too wet. When dormant, this species should be watered only enough to keep the potting medium slightly moist not wet.
Light
This seedling has been growing under about 2000 footcandles or 80% shade. This corresponds to bright shade or dappled sunlight. Older seedlings and mature plants can be given up to 5000 footcandles or 50% shade if adjusted to higher light levels slowly.
Plants that develop spindly leaves that do not hold themselves upright are receiving too little light. Direct sunlight for long periods should be avoided.
Fertilizer
Plants in active growth benefit from the regular application of fertilizer. When new growth commences, use any good balanced (16-16-16, 20-20-20, etc.) fertilizer according to the manufacturer’s recommendations.
When the developing leaf has completely opened, use a “blossom booster”
(a fertilizer with a larger middle number such as 10-35-15) according to manufacturer’s recommendations throughout the remainder of the growing season.
Once the plant begins to show signs of dormancy, stop fertilizing. Well-grown and fed plants develop very rapidly. A 1 foot tall plant can be expected to be 2 feet tall in the next growing season and a 6-7 foot plant is not unexpected at the end of the 4th growing season.
Temperature
This species is a true tropical and must be protected from temperatures below 45F. We keep our plants at about 60F winter nights so regular house conditions are acceptable.
Dormancy
The species does go dormant although for only a short period of time. There is NO particular season when dormancy occurs and can differ from clone to clone. When dormant, the corms MUST be left in the potting soil and should be kept just slightly damp.
This seedling can be expected to produce a series of leaves (3-5) one after the other before entering its first dormant period. Each leaf will be significantly taller than the one before it and the seedling shouldn’t be disturbed until it enters dormancy.
The first signs of dormancy will be a slight shrinking of the circumference of the petiole that sort of give the appearance of vertical ridges. At the same time or shortly after, the leaf lamina will lose its rigidity and begin to droop slightly.
As the onset of dormancy continues, the leaf lamina will droop progressively more and begin to take on a yellowish appearance. Eventually, the leaf petiole will yellow and collapse. This is all normal. The collapsing leaf should be left on the plant until it separates from the corm on its own.
What’s going on under the soil surface is the corm is reaching its final size for the growing season and still taking nourishment from the leaf. Removal of the leaf interferes with this process.
Remove the leaf only when a gentle tug causes it to separate. During this time frame begin to dry the plant out a bit more between waterings so that when the leaf separates the plant can be kept just slightly damp.
Once dormant, we have found it beneficial to remove the plant from the pot, stir up the potting media and replant the corm about a third of the way down the pot. This helps avoid the corm sitting in compacted potting mix and reduces the chances of rotting.
When handling the corm, avoid damaging the central growth point and whatever root system the corm has. The proper pot size is about 2-3 times the diameter of the corm. For example, a 2” corm will occupy a 6” pot.
Happy Growing! |
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